The One-Step Process for Brown, Auburn, Chestnut and Chocolate Hair
Henna and Indigo (Hendigo)
Ideal if you have dark hair already or if you are trying to cover grey hair.
Henna : Indigo-Colour
Ratio 1:1 for Light Brown/Auburn
Ratio 1:2 for Brown/Chestnut
Ratio 1:3 for Dark Brown/Chocolate
- Mix the indigo and henna in separate bowls with hot water.
- After 20 minutes combine them both and mix thoroughly.
- Adjust the consistency as required and apply.
- Leave on for 2-6 hours, then rinse.
- Do not shampoo for 2 days.
A Two-Step Process for Blackish Brown and Jet Black Hair
Henna The Hair First – Then Indigo The Hair Straight After
To Achieve Jet Black:
- Mix the henna in a bowl with hot water.
- Wait 15 minutes for the henna to mature.
- Adjust the consistency .
- Apply the henna to the hair.
- Henna the hair as usual for at least 2 hours.
Make the indigo hair dye in a bowl just before rinsing the henna.
Some people add 1teaspoon of salt per 100g of indigo to obtain a richer colour.
Mix the indigo into a smooth paste and leave for 20 minutes.
In the meantime rinse the henna from the hair but do not shampoo or condition the hair.
Dry the hair until it is just damp.
Apply the indigo straight away and leave in the hair for at least 30 minutes for dark brown and 1-2 hours for black.
Rinse the indigo out of the hair but do not shampoo for 2 days as the indigo will need time to oxidise and reveal its true colour and sheen.
How to Apply Natural Hair Dye
Cover the floor and delicate surfaces with newspaper or go outside.
Wear old, dark coloured clothes.
Cover the shoulders with an old towel or cape.
Protect the skin around the hair line and the ears with argan oil to help avoid staining of the skin.
Wearing gloves, apply the dye to clean and wet hair.
Section long hair on the head and apply the dye to the hair at the nape of the neck first with the corresponding hair, gradually working over the crown of the head to the forehead, ensuring that every hair is coated right down to the roots.
Or simply massage the mixture close to the hair line and along the strands of hair. It only takes me 5 minutes to massage the dye in by hand. You can use a paint brush if you prefer.
Then cover the hair with an old scarf, a tea towel or better still, sheets of newspaper and wrap the hair for the required time.
By keeping the hair well covered, the dye will not dry out and it will be easier to rinse.
Keep the head warm (a woolly hat is great) to encourage dye release.
Wipe any drips from the skin immediately.
Rinse and wash the towels straight after use to reduce the risk of staining.
Getting Perfect Results with Indigo Hair Dye
Hair which is naturally dark and thick will need longer dyeing times than hair which is naturally light coloured or fine.
To achieve dark colours and jet black, the two-step process is always recommended. When using the two step process, if you don’t quite get the coverage you require, both steps need to be repeated.
If you have hair which you know to be difficult to dye then the henna can be left on for 3-4 hours and the
indigo from 2-6 hours. Hair which is naturally dark and thick will need longer dyeing times than hair which
is naturally light in colour or fine.
When using these longer dying times, it is far better to mix the henna with Seaweed extract, made by standing the dried Scottish Seaweed in water. This will give a full strength seaweed extract. Heat the extract and use instead of water for mixing the henna and indigo. The fucins and alginates (the slippery substances in the seaweed) have amazing conditioning and protective qualities.
Be prepared to experiment. Record what you do so that when you do find the way which give you the best colour results, that way you can easily repeat your optimal method.
For deep conditioning, use Seaweed extract instead of water to make up the henna or indigo. This is highly
recommended for fine hair, dry hair, Afro hair or damaged hair. In fact, adding seaweed to natural hair dyes gives real benefits to the quality of the hair and scalp. I always use seaweed extract in place of water for mixing my hair dyes.
The henna is ready to apply as soon as the top layer darkens (15-20 minutes), the indigo once the top layer goes a blacky-bluey-purplish colour (15-20 minutes).
Resist the temptation to add vinegar or lemon juice to the henna, just use water or Seaweed extract please!
INGREDIENT: Indigo tinctoria powder
Is this indigo pure?
Yes, this indigo is 100% dried and ground leaf of the indigo plant. Nothing more and nothing less. It is totally pure and certified organic.
How do I do a strand test?
If you have not used indigo before, or if your hair has been chemically dyed or treated, you might be curious about how your hair will turn out. It is easy to find out: Apply some indigo to an inconspicuous strand of hair in trial using the same process which you intend to use, either the one-step or two-step process and for the same timings. Bear in mind that the hair which has been dyed with indigo will darken slightly over the course of two days.
How do I do a patch test?
Allergic reactions to pure indigo are rare, but if you have not used this product before, it is wise to conduct a patch test. Mix a small amount of indigo with hot water and allow to mature for 15 minutes. Place the indigo paste onto the inside of the forearm or behind the ear. Cover and leave for as long as the indigo will be in contact with the skin during the course of hair dying. Remove the indigo paste once the time is up or sooner if there is a reaction. Examine the condition or the skin.
Can I use indigo if I have already dyed my hair with synthetic hair dyes and used chemical treatments?
Yes, you can apply both the henna and indigo ahir dye to hair which has been chemically dyed, bleached, streaked, highlighted, relaxed and permed, but it is best to wait for several weeks before using either of these products. Wash the hair with Rhassoul Clay first to remove chemical build up so that the henna and indigo can work on the hair directly.
Can I remove indigo from the skin?
Not easily. Before dying the hair with indigo, apply a fine plant oil such as Argan Oil to the edges of the face to help prevent
staining. Wipe any drips away immediately and wear gloves.
Can I remove indigo from the hair?
Henna acts as a permanent dye on the hair and can not be removed. Indigo is slow to fade too. Do not bleach the hair after using henna or indigo, as the results are very unpredictable.
Can I use synthetic hair dyes and chemical hair treatments after using indigo?
Using synthetic and chemical hair treatments after dying the hair with indigo gives very unpredictable results.
It doesn’t take long to master the use of natural hair dyes and natural hair dyes do give a much more ‘vital’ look,
emphasising any highlights, lowlights and bringing brilliant lustre of the hair, plus pure plant based hair dyes are very
much safer to use than chemical hair dyes, especially with darker colours. PDP, a chemical in chemical hair dyes can cause life threatening allergic reactions, hair loss etc. Even if we can prevent one allergic reaction by teaching people about alternatives to chemical hair dyes we will be delighted.
How do I store the indigo powder?
To preserve the quality of the dye, keep your henna and indigo powder in a dark, cool and dry location. While the henna powder and paste can be frozened, neither the indigo powder nor indigo paste can be frozened. If using part of a packet of henna or indigo, roll up the packet tightly to exclude the air to keep the remainder as fresh as possible.
What happens if you don’t use henna with the indigo?
Applied, straight to blond hair, indigo changes the colour to blue, or greenish, depending on the amount of yellow pigment already present in the hair. Indigo is the traditional dye for making denim jeans blue.
Do a patch and strand test before use if you have any concerns about allergic reactions or if you want to check the final colour on your hair.
Store the indigo way from children and pets.